Changing the coil pack on my Mazda 6i. What could go wrong?

"ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR" (ZeroOrDie)
09/04/2013 at 11:34 • Filed to: shadetreejalops

(not actual offenders)

Step1. Open hood and check to see what type of bolts there are.
Step2. Acquire tools and extender to reach bolts.
Step3. Attempt to remove bolts carefully.
Step4. Break first bolt in half and destroy plastic and brass ring holding it in place.(hulk arms)
Step5. Start on second bolt and strip it immediately.
Step6. *deep sign*
Step7. Pick up remains, gather tools, and close hood.
Step8. Put tools away and go inside.
Step9. Lay face first in a pillow.
Step10. Reflect on how you accomplished nothing today and actually created more work(impressive).

DISCUSSION (23)

BarryDanger > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 11:36

Step25. Profit!

MooseKnuckles > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 11:38

I see your 6i behaves much like my 6S

Speedmonkey > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 11:41

Haha. I've a whole litany of tales

ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR > MooseKnuckles
09/04/2013 at 11:46

Pretty much. I removed the rear wing. One of the bolts I stripped and had to get off with a monkey wrench. The other shattered the internals so it was free spinning. Had to file it in half. Simple job turns into much longer job than I thought.

I got nylon plugs for the wing holes. They were too big. I was so tired from fighting the dang thing. My dad used dad logic and was like..."just drill the holes out to the size you have" It was super effective.

Oh and the person who installed the wing used like friggin gobs of blue loctite on each bolt. Like he was going to go 150mph or something.

dd3333 > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 11:49

Occasionally, first tightening "just-a-skoosh" helps; butt mostly not! You may wish to attempt the others after the engine has warmed-up (?).

ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR > Speedmonkey
09/04/2013 at 11:54

Yup I do worry about my mechanic friend who works on Mercedes. Seems like there are a thousand things that could go wrong.

ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR > dd3333
09/04/2013 at 11:56

It was warm since I had just gotten home maybe an hour before hand. I thought this might help. I will probably be using your method along with some type of lubicate for every bolt from now on whether I think it needs it or not.

Takuro Spirit > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 12:37

Step 1. Bring to dealer. Get ass raped. Car is fixed.

ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR > Takuro Spirit
09/04/2013 at 13:19

Yea when the same thing happens to them they charge me an extra two hours of labor. My time is worth much less. Dunno if that is sad or not.

dd3333 > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 13:35

You may wish to try a very small quantity of PB Blaster, WD-40, or Liquid Wrench. Read any instructions related to hot surfaces, then exercise "patience" after initial application to allow penetrant sufficient time to "work". When that fails, strap-on your 3-foot breaker-bar and rip-er-out by its roots.

ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR > dd3333
09/04/2013 at 13:54

I think the issue was I used my 3 foot arm with no lube. *ba dum psh* But yea I was thinking PBblaster in the future. It is a ten year old car now. I guess I should treat it that way.

Squid > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 15:11

Penetrating fluid is your friend. Pick up some PB blaster or Kroil. Use it on every bolt you take out. Spray it liberally and let it set for a few hours or over night and never have this problem again. . .

Squid > dd3333
09/04/2013 at 15:12

WD-40 is a water dispersant and not a penetrating fluid.

ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR > Squid
09/04/2013 at 15:17

Teach me the ways.

dd3333 > Squid
09/04/2013 at 15:26

Thanks for the correction...appreciated! Use WD-40 as a possible lubricant, but NOT as a penetrant.

Meatcoma > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 15:34

Have a Wookie!

Squid > dd3333
09/04/2013 at 15:34

It is even lackluster at being a lubricant. You are better off using a silicone lube. WD-40 is great if you need to dry out a wet bolt or even some less delicate electrical connections but you are better off forgetting about WD-40 as the go to everything lube.

People report Kroil as the best penetrant but PB blaster has been good for me. I also use a dry silicone lube for all rubber bits and white lithium grease for lots of other stuff. The world of lubricants has gotten so advanced now. Chemistry really is beautiful.

Squid > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 15:36

Just cover every bolt and nut with penetrating fluid and let it sit over night or for a few days for best results. It makes for a less frustrating time when dealing with corrosion and stubborn fasteners that would rather snap than break free. The thing is it isn't instant that it starts to work, capillary action takes some time.

dd3333 > dd3333
09/04/2013 at 15:46

Hey you kids! Listen and learn from Sir Squid, he won't steer you wrong. Please place that old dented can of craptastic WD-40 in the nearest recycle bin.

VincentMalamute-Kim > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 22:05

In addition to what Squid says, squirt more PB Blaster/Kroil on the bolt every 3 or 4 hours. Clean the bolt. And the threads if you're trying to get a nut off - use a pick. Goal is to try to help the oil's capillary action work. Hammer or air hammer also - the vibration breaks up the rust/corrosion bond and also helps the oil penetrate. Don't use WD40 - it's not a penetrating oil.

Chalk these two up to "you're learning what bolts feel like just before they shear off".

Finally, my favorite. This is an excuse to buy an oxy/acetylene rig.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/04/2013 at 23:01

Kinja'd!!!

Sucks for you. My coil pack is probably the single most accessible part on my engine. It's just sitting there, right on top.

ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
09/04/2013 at 23:14

So is mine I just can remove it to replace it haha.

Skeen > ZeroOrDie - Powered By MZR
09/07/2013 at 23:24

You sound like me. I swear i'm always snapping bolts or stripping things. Putting on my fly wheel the other day. Had the engine in and out so many times and clutch replacements with flywheel resurfacing that when I tighten to bolts down to spec they start spinning continuously. I think.. Here we go again. Time to pull the engine once again after I just got it set in and now put heli coils in the crank. Sigh...